Slept in at the green mountain hostel before getting a ride up to the trail. We were carpooling with the through hiker who probably wanted to savor his time in town, so we let him pick the time and thus a leisurely 9:30. "Butterfeet", his trail name was soft spoken and modest. It was awesome to learn about his trek thus far. He's a beast, averaging something close to 20 miles a day! We later ran into a bunch of other through hikers averaging the same, then also learned that this is among the leading bubble of through hikers. Some of the fastest of the bunch. It made us feel a little, if not much better.
The hostel owner dropped the three of us off at the trail head on VT route 9 and we parted ways. Going southbound is actually fairly uncommon. Although most of the hikers hadn't started in Georgia, segment hikers doing a month, or those going for the "long trail" (a trail that spans Vermont from north to south and overlaps with the AT) generally go from south to north too.
The first day was lots of up and down and plenty of rocks. We stopped for lunch at prospect rock- a beautiful view, albeit unfortunately overlooking the town we had just come from. Views were actually a bit hard to come by during our hike. "The green tunnel", thorough hikers called it.
Later in the day, we flushed a rough grouse with chicks. It was actually intense because through the dense vegetation, you can really only see movement. She made this weird noise I'd never heard before than actually started right for us. In the 2-3 seconds, you immediately enter fight or flight mode, and with a 50 lb pack on, flight isn't much of an option. Then you see it's just a grouse, which proceeds to egg you on down the trail, well in sight to get you away from the chicks.
Day 1 was 10.5 miles ending at Stratton pond shelter. It already had a number of people and steadily gained throughout the evening to about 12 or even 15 people. It was a huge shelter though so plenty of room. I kind of had mixed feelings about shelters. Part of the reason you are out hiking is to be alone, but he crew was awesome and quite interesting to talk to. A couple were through hikers, walking to Vermont from Georgia, no big deal. A few others had hopped on in Virginia and still made the 700 some miles up here. A group of 4 guys were out for a week, hilarious crew. One had brought banana grams, which seems like an extravagance, but they'd been playing it each night, so, whatever works I guess. A couple more were just starting the long trail trek to Canada, some 230 miles. Some were like us and just out for a few days.
When we had first gotten there, I had asked a hiker if the water supply was the lake. He told me there's a stream and that you'd never want to get water from a lake. I thought there was something at first maybe particular about this lake, but he meant all lakes. I guess I cannot verify this, but I had always heard that contrary to popular belief, lakes were often better sources. Regardless, we pumped for the lake and are still here to talk about it.
After our great dinner of tuna alfredo pasta (plus zucchini and sun dried tomatoes), we sat around the campfire chatting with the other hikers, learning about their adventures and life in the east. A great first day.
We shoved off by 8:30 the following morning and were on of the last in camp. Talk about motivated to get moving! The first three miles were up to Stratton mountain. Strenuous, steady, and rocky. At he top, there was no initial view to be had, but a fire tower, which we climbed, and then were rewarded with an awesome view on the green mountains.
Down the mountain was tricky as well. We rocks are never awesome to scramble over. Each of these three days was sprinkled with intermittent rain. Some times a drizzle, sometimes steady, others heavy. At some point though, you just have to keep trekking. Stopped for lunch at some nameless u.s. Forest road, only to see a massive rv come rumbling up it. Everything we hate after trying so hard to get away. Such is life. Flushed another grouse with chicks- still the same response and feeling. Kind of cool to see though. Lots of little orange salamanders on the trail too. I don't think we have this kind in Minnesota. Kate or I didn't recognize them at least.
The last hour of the hike was brutal mentally. That feeling that you should be done by now and filling each corner with false hope and fresh disappointment. It's hard to keep the attitude entire way and harder yet when slogging through long stretches of mud. We'd conquered it before at isle royale, no it was still trying, especially 10 miles in to a 15 mile day. Mercifully, we trotted into the shelter a little before 6 and enjoyed another great view over a valley. It's amazing too how quickly you attitude perks up once you get dinner rolling. Bears had been active here and at the shelter 5 miles up the trail. Hikers at our last shelter had said they actually saw the thing at our new shelter that morning! And not generally fearful either. Despite our misgivings, the next shelter was a long 4.7 miles away, so we hung a high bear bag and hoped for the best. The good thing with shelters I guess this that we did have another 4 people with us. Fairly comforting in case of a bear visit.
Our final day was a 14 mile push out to the highway. The local transit also had a bus on this highway that came through once, at 4:45 to my estimation. Not something you want to be late for. We shoved off at 7:30 knowing that the general trend was downhill and that we had a goal to reach.
The first few miles flew by. We had our mid morning snack at the next shelter and chatted with the only other south bound hiker we saw during our trip. She was solo hiking 70 miles after a recent breakup with her boyfriend side tracked another planned hiking trip. Opportunities come in odd places I guess.
The trail was generally easier going than yesterday. More stretches of dirt with limited elevation changes. We did climb to Glastonbury mountain, again with no initial view, but a fire tower. The fog/mist was so heavy that we deemed it not worth with, much to the disdain of a north bound hiker who had arrived there at the same time as us. We trekked on without a view.
The last climb be for the big push down to the road with trying. Humidity was up and the legs were tired. At some point, you are just sick of scrambling over rocks up hill while profusely sweating. We made it though, and began the final descent.
The last few miles are a steady down at first, then steep into the river valley. We actually beat the bus with lots of time to spare. We waited it out, (in the rain no less) under the shelter of an info sign.
9 people were crowded onto the tiny bus bound for Bennington. I know this mainly because one of the regulars was pretty excited about it. Another odd duck commenting that he'd never seen this many people on the emerald line before. At least half of us were soggy hikers headed into town.
We had only reserved Saturday night at our hotel, so we were banking they had room tonight as well, but were in luck and got put up for both nights.
Dinner celebration was at the brew pub downtown. Burgers for both and a flight of beer for Kate. Quite possibly the first time that she got a flight and I stuck with a beer.
Downtown Bennington is beautiful and quaint. Just like you'd imagine a small New England town to be, with the green mountains in the background, it's hard to beat.
